`To Know Armenia, Come to Gyumri' - Dzitoghtzian House Museum

Armenian News Network / Groong
December 29, 2008
Travel Wire

By Ruth Bedevian

GYUMRI, ARMENIA

In 1837 Tsar Nicholas I visited the city and it was at that time that he renamed it Alexandropol for his wife Alexandra (who upon converting to Orthodox Christianity had changed her name from Princess Charlotte of Prussia). Until 1846 Gyumri belonged to the Georgian state of the Trans-Caucasus region and as such was the third most developed city center after Baku and Tibilisi (Tiflis). Originally the name of the city was Gumairy but the name evolved into Gyumri through difficulty in pronunciation. In 1924 the city was renamed Leninagan for the Bolshevik leader, Vladimir Lenin, and following the demise of the USSR in 1991, the name reverted back to Gyumri.

Gyumri was the site of some of Armenia's `firsts.' An impressive list of displays and dates, all prior to the emergence of Yerevan's development as a capital city, is evident throughout the museum. In 1858 the construction of Holy Savior Church (Sourp Prkitch) began, designed to resemble the Cathedral of Ani. It was completed by 1886. In 1873 Zarouhi Gouloumyan was the first woman to risk performing on stage. In 1876 the first printing press was established by Kevork Sanoyantz who was a writer. The first brewery in Armenia opened in 1890 when Bedros sent his son, Mkrtich, to Munich, Germany to learn how to brew beer! The first railroad to Alexandropol was completed in 1899, connecting Tibilisi (Tiflis) to the city and then was extended to Yerevan, Jolfa and Tabriz by 1906, thus making Alexandropol an important railway center. In 1907 the first rug manufacturing shop was established, mainly using red colors. Anahid advised us, `If a male figure was found in the border of a carpet, it was a sign that the carpet was an original unique Gyumri design. In 1912 the Hekimian Brothers opened the first mechanical school and made agricultural equipment. 1912 also witnessed the first opera (Anoosh) to be performed in Armenia. Astghik Norikyan played Anoush and Shara Talyan played Saro. The composer/conductor was Armen Dickranyan.

Anahid introduced us to the first display room where we viewed jewelry and the tools that craftsmen used, informing us that Gyumri was a major city for crafts and manufacturing. It was the hub of jewelry manufacturing. A huge diorama of Gyumri in 1910 showed a very organized layout of the city with seven Armenian churches (one of them Armenian Catholic) one Russian Chapel which still exists and one Greek church. In 1926 there was an earthquake in which the Greek church, the Armenian Catholic Church and the St. Gregory Armenian Apostolic church were destroyed.

Three footed cane, doubled as a seat, giving the user the option to sit and rest - precursor to today's adjustable folding seat canes. © Ruth Bedevian

We viewed a moushourba (its name means `running water'), a special cup made only by Gyumri craftsmen. Moushourbas were very popular at the end of the 19th and beginning of the 20th centuries. Still in use today, they can be purchased from the Berlin Art Hotel near the museum. Space between the bottom of the cup and its base creates such a design that keeps water cool during the summer sans refrigeration.

A rich collection of Armenian musical instruments delights the visitor: A parkapzouk - akin to the Scottish Bag pipe, a drum, the kamancha and the sar - also a shvi and a bloul, both single reed wind instruments that are commonly used by shepherds - two cousins to the duduk. (Typically, most duduk players learn to play the shvi first.) Sheram (Grigor Talyan), a celebrated composer and performer of music and verse (gusan) appeared in the photo collection of famed native artists as did Jivani. Most touching to view, however, was a photo of a group of blind children with Komitas Vartabed who conducted a concert with them in Gyumri in 1913.

Anahid led us through to a final room, a typical example of the European décor of a rich merchant's home, noting the red painted floors, white ceilings and decorative wallpaper. Chess and Bingo games, a 130-year old piano from Austria and a gramophone dominated the comfortable living room. She shared an anecdote to emphasize the affluence of 19th century Gyumri society, saying, `There were no poor people.' She went on to explain, `This is a true story. A man wore his cap all the time and only removed it when he entered a church or the theater. He owned two phaetons, one to transport himself and one for his cap!'

Typical Gyumri costumes for men and women were nicely displayed. There were two types of tailoring - European and National - and Singer sewing machines were heavily in use. Shoe manufacturing also took place. Buffalo, sheep and bull skins were used to make shoes and boots. (Buffalo came from Russia.) Chintz was used to line the footwear.

Gyumri tonnish, precursor to 21st century baby bouncer. © Ruth Bedevian

Near the end of our visit, a group of French tourists arrived. Another guide from the museum was taking the foreigner visitors through the displays, speaking fluent French! I departed the Dzitoghtzian House Museum filled with appreciation for a superb tour, admiration for the accomplishments of 19th century Gyumri society and a deeper knowledge of Armenia. Truly, as Anahid accurately educated us, `If you want to know Armenia, you must come to Gyumri!

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Ruth Bedevian continues her visits in Armenia. Many of her articles are at:
	http://www.groong.org/orig/armeniahousemuseums.html